In 2014, we hiked the Camino de Santiago in Spain, and I kept a brief diary. This is day one of Canadians on the Camino,
Canadians on the Camino, Day 1: In Pamplona
Canadians on the Camino, Day 2: Alto de Perdón
(September 05) We rise early and in the dark to take the breakfast provided by our hotel. We will each be carrying backpacks, mine a 44-litre Osprey which weighs about 10 kilos (just over 20 pounds) when packed, while Martha’s is a 30-litre pack and will weigh about seven kilos. We took considerable care in... Continue Reading →
Canadians on the Camino, Day 3: Blessing the pilgrims
(September 06) We are on the road in the dark prior to 7:00 a.m. to avoid the heat of the day - and to get a spot in an albergue in Estella, a larger town of 14,000 which is 22 kilometres down the road. We begin by walking down the main street in Puente de... Continue Reading →
Canadians on the Camino, Day 4: Los Arcos and the martyrs
(September 07) As we leave Estella early this (Sunday) morning, we encounter various groups of young Spaniards who are staggering home, likely after partying through the night. They are really drunk but also friendly. Most of today's 22 kilometre walk is through lovely vineyard country. Just west of Estella, we come upon a fountain, not... Continue Reading →
Canadians on the Camino, Day 5: Blisters underfoot
(September 08) This is another day that begins with walking before dawn. We have a fast coffee and some wholesome brown bread at the albergue in Los Arcos and head off into the open farm country. It is quiet at this time of day and the light over the fields and hills becomes wonderfully soft... Continue Reading →
Canadians on the Camino, Day 6: Who walks the Way?
(September 09) The Camino de Santiago is a centuries old pilgrimage in the tradition of the Catholic Church. Today people walk it for a variety of reasons and in many, if not most, cases those reasons may not be religious. Through repeated encounters on the trail and in the streets, restaurants and bars in towns,... Continue Reading →
Canadians on the Camino, Day 7: Marian devotion and Sister Adoración
(September 10) Tonight we are comfortably housed in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a charming town of 6,600. It has its share of accommodation for pilgrims, some of it dating back to the 11th century. The Cistercian nuns run a crowded albergue with a shaded terrace and garden but we noticed in our guide... Continue Reading →
Canadians on the Camino, Day 9: Franco’s shadow
(September 12) Tonight we are in a tiny village called Ages located four days of walking and about 100 kilometres beyond Logrono. Yesterday we passed from Spain’s smallest autonomous region, La Rioja, into its largest Castilla y Leon and we stayed in Belorado, population 2000. Belorado sits at less than 800 metres but today we... Continue Reading →
Canadians on the Camino, Day 10: Long walk into Burgos
(September 13) Tonight we are in Burgos, population 150,000 and we have decided take a rest day after 10 days and more than 200 kilometres on the trail. We have about 500 kilometres remaining to reach Santiago de Compostela. We left the tiny and run down village of Ages early and in the dark this... Continue Reading →
Canadians on the Camino, Day 11: El Cid and the Moors
(September 14) After the tranquility of the countryside, our guidebook warns about the hustle and bustle in Burgos (population 180,000), not to mention the possibility of being overcharged or becoming the victims of theft. Actually, we are pleased to be in a city for a day or two where we walk less than on other... Continue Reading →
Pulpit and Politics 